Melbourne to Thimphu

Melbourne 14:30 6 November - c.7300 kms and some 8.5 hrs later landed in Bangkok informed as being the 2nd largest airport in the world - 800m walk from plane to Customs, great to stretch our legs. Tall, plenty of steel and glass, the ceilings curved, with crescents of what looked to be silver Thai silk every 50 metres or so, trusses underlit with a blue glow, great affect. Once cleared Customs, baggage ready by the time we arrived at the luggage carousel, efficiency plus when we made our way to the departure area, locating our slight, short handsome hotel representative, dressed in a very attractive, eye-popping cerise coloured jacket. Our shuttle was a 15 minute wait, and the so-called 'airport' hotel as some 20 minutes drive away. Upgraded to a Premier Suite, we pretty much crashed and burned almost as soon as we had a cleansing shower at 21:30 - 01:30 Melbourne-time.
   Up at 03:45 for a 04:30 brekky, to the airport on almost deserted streets at over 120 kms … no need as our 7:30 flight was delayed to well after 9:00, so once through passport control we wandered up and down the massively long duty-free shopping precinct. A long wait in the departure lounge, surrounded by mostly middle-aged adventurers, in the main dressed like us, in 'adventure' gear, big boots and daypacks, some with binoculars hanging round their necks, apparently on a bird-watching tour of Bhutan.
   We didn't realise we'd be landing in India, arriving in Guwahati, where some of the passengers disembarked, and half as many again joined our merry little band. After half an hour we were in the air again, for a short 35 minute hop over to Paro, with the Himalayas in the distance on our left [and we were seated on the left-hand side], the small Druk Air jet following the contours and curves of a steep valley making what seemed a rapid descent, not too many hundred of metres from craggy mountains, a very spectacular entrance indeed. Couldn't swear on a stack of bibles we saw Mt Everest, but, you never know …
   The airport building at Paro is itself a complete contrast to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Hong Kong airports, based on the traditional design of Bhutanese buildings. Delightful, a on a more 'human' scale. A very simple structure indeed, handpainted decoration, white walls, minimum of fuss. Once inside, striking up a conversation with a fellow passenger from Cork who is here for a 2 week photography tour - grrrr, lucky! Well, so are we, come to think of it, as less than 30,000 foreign visitors are accepted into this wonderful country each year.
   Once we cleared a very casual, informal entry process, we were met by our guide Jigme, who wrapped a small white silk shawl around our necks as a traditional welcome, and driver Ujen, both young men, perhaps in their late 20s. Very polite, asked us if we wanted to drive to Thimphu fast or slow - we preferred slow - a 65 km, 2 hour, journey on curving roads following the contours of valleys, often with fast flowing rivers below. Thimphu, the capital, population some 80,000, altitude of around 2,500 m. Impressions? Dry - currently autumn - steep, rocky slopes, terrace farming, old mud houses being replaced by newer ones, plenty of tin roofs with red chillies drying in the sun, not many cars, we were constantly tooted by vehicles wanting to overtake, lots of stray dogs, every now and then bunches  of people - mainly women - undertaking elementary roadworks by the side of the road, roadside stalls and shops, cypress pines everywhere, all the while Jigme politely answering questions. Bamboo used as scaffolding in new buildings, which seem to be popping up everywhere, many of them white, others various bright base colours with intricate detailing at the first floor level, around windows, animal and plant motifs, the occasional flying penis, some gaudy, others muted, a feast for the eyes. Not many cows, no sheep or horses that we saw. Hardly any bikes or scooters, mainly cars, taxis, vans and lorries, many of the latter painted and decorated.
   Arrived at out hotel, famished and tired, requiring a stop. Once checked in, enjoyed an hours stillness with a noodle, vegetable and chicken dish, which we shared, along with a hot drink. Checked out our room, which is on the 4th floor, running out  of breath as there are no lifts, forgetting we are 2500m up. Pleasantly surprised by the quality of the room, a good size, with windows facing a main intersection, we spotted a traffic cop with great precision waving his arms, directing traffic. Atmospheric, sounds of voices and traffic rising from the streets below and surrounding us.
   An hour later we visited a stupa - National Memorial Choeten - with prayer wheels, paths leading to a small structure with a religious sculpture in the middle, then the stupa itself, large, white, oriented along the 4 directional axis, 4 gods at first floor level, a sculpture of a buddha a level above that, devotees of all ages walking round the structure in a clockwise direction, mumbling prayers, spinning wheels … a place where one contemplates and offers prayers for intervention, assistance, guidance …
   A drive up another winding road, which offered good views of the city below, snow-covered mountains to the north and south, to a great building site where a giant golden Buddha sat on a plinth, being constructed, facing East. Awe-inspiring. Returned to the main streets and went on a short walk, again to stretch legs, smell smells, see what the local people do. Splashes of red on the pavements, signs of betel-leaf chewing. Most of the men in their traditional dress, the Gho, the Kira for women. Was told chewing betel leaves "warms the body". Mobile phones everywhere. Spotted satellite dishes here and there.
   Returned to the hotel, and after about a half hour wait, we met our Tourist Bureau liaison, Pranita, which was a fantastic bonus. She has organised everything for us, and it was a real delight to meet her and spend some time with her. Plan for tomorrow includes visiting a school, and perhaps a school where the 13 Bhutanese traditional arts are taught. Dinner with Pranita at her recommendation. Need a good night's sleep and hope to be bright and alert …